Showing posts with label Miko-an. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Miko-an. Show all posts

Sunday, January 16, 2011

Eating in Japan- Or How I Gained Weight Despite Walking A Lot

It could have been worse.  I could have gained many pounds from all the delicious food I ate in Japan. Luckily I only gained two pounds.  It amazes me how slender most Japanese people are despite the size of the portions we were served in many of the meals we ate.  The Japanese diet is considered to be very healthy and from what I could see the Japanese walk more than most Americans do (particularly me these days).  There were some hints, however, that diet might change in Japan to be more like the garbage Americans eat.  We saw a number of people buying doughnuts from places like Krispy Kreme.  And McDonald's is making huge inroads with its oversized hamburgers.

At the same time, there are more vegetarian options in Japan than ever before.  I have been trying to be a vegetarian (sometimes I lapse) so my Japanese friends found vegetarian restaurants for us, which may not be completely representative of Japanese food but certainly were different from American vegetarian restaurants.

Our first Japanese restaurant meal in Tokyo was dinner at a Shabu Shabu restaurant on the 38th floor of the Yebisu Garden Tower near our hotel.  Unfortunately I did not get any pictures of the food there, focussing more on the fantastic views of Tokyo.  Here is a photo that looked much like what we ate.  So much for no meat!
Shabu Shabu © 2009 Bermi Ferrer Creative Commons license

The next day, after our trip to Meiji Shrine, we had lunch at the vegetarian restaurant Hanada Rosso (see also here).  I had a delicious vegetarian burger in tomato sauce with side dishes.  The chef, Minako  Hanada, is reportedly a celebrity chef in Japan.
Lunch at Hanado Rosso in Harajuku
We also had vegetarian meals at an Indian restaurant, Nataraj, in Ginza area of Tokyo and at Miko-an in downtown Kyoto.  Unfortunately I do not have pictures of what we ate at either place but both were superb.  Someone else's blog entry about Miko-an has some great pictures of the food and the restaurant. Some photos of Nataraj can be seen here.

My husband is not terribly fond of vegetarian food but he loves tofu.  The very first thing we did after arriving in Kyoto at about 2:30 pm on Monday, December 6, was to head out to find a particular tofu restaurant recommended by his friend from Kyoto and by one of our guidebooks.   Okutan is across from Nanzen-ji and must get enough tourists to prompt the sign saying "We only have Tofu course".  We did not care and were thrilled with the different ways they served tofu.
Okutan menu in english

Sesame Tofu, Yam soup, sake, tofu pot

Baked Tofu with Miso glaze

Okutan (Kyoto) interior
We tried a few specialities in places.  Nara Udon was delicious and a real find after we missed out on the restaurant where we had wanted to go because it had closed.  In Kyoto, we ate a donburi dish, a chicken and semi cooked egg over rice bowl, called oyakadon which is the speciality of the restaurant "Hisago".  We also ate sushi twice in the Kyoto train station, once in a restaurant and the other time in a sushi bar with a conveyor belt (kaiten-zushi) called Musashi.  And in Hiroshima we tried the okonomiyaki, a pancake based dish (although locals call it Japanese pizza) with vegetables, egg, fish (in my case) and a sauce which I am told can be made from ketchup, worcestershire sauce, soy sauce and mayonnaise.  It tastes better than it sounds!
Nara Udon
Chicken and egg bowl, oyakadon, which is the speciality of the restaurant "Hisago" ©Reiko Yabu 2010
Sushi and tempura in Kyoto train station

Okonomiyaki in Hiroshima- Seafood special


Then there were the cakes-- probably my real downfall in terms of causes of weight gain--although the portions were not large like they are in the US.   First, we discovered a Christmas roll cake at Starbucks that was a small green tea cake with jelly and whipped cream topping.   Why doesn't Starbucks here have something so delicious?!  The picture makes it look large but it was fairly small. We ate that a lot- splitting it with a cuppa in the evening.  Then we also tried the famous Kyoto roll and some other Kyoto cake in the train station with Kyoto siphon coffee (a great place to eat).   On the Philosopher's Path in Kyoto we shared  lovely pieces of homemade apple and blueberry cake ("my wife make them") in a restaurant called Pomme.
Christmas cake at Starbucks.  YUM!
Kyoto Roll at Kyoto station
Homemade cakes at Pomme on Philosophers Path in Kyoto
Pomme in Kyoto
Another Kyoto cake at the train station
Kyoto siphon coffee in train station
Gaining a few pounds was well worth it to eat all these scrumptious foods in Japan!

Saturday, January 15, 2011

Kicking It in Kyoto (so to speak)- December 7, 2010

For this post, I will use my dear Japanese friend and guide's itinerary for the day as a template, filling it in with a few observations and pictures.

10:00 We arrived at  Nishihongan-ji  (temple), not far from our hotel at the train station- the Kyoto Granvia.  The temple is Shin Buddhist (teaching is Jodo Shinshu (The True Essence of Pure Land Buddhist Teaching)), founded by Shinran Shonin, and sits on the site of the founder's mausoleum.  We entered through the Amidado Gate and visited the Amidado (Daisho-in) Hall dedicated to the Amida Buddha,  and the Goeido Hall (Founder's Hall) dedicated to Shinran.  Behind the temple was a temple preschool where we saw lovely 3-5 year olds playing in the yard.

Amidadomon Gate to Nishihongan-ji 
 Nishihongan-ji  precincts Goeido Hall on right

Buddhist altar in Goeido Hall

 Nishihongan-ji  Preschool


11:00  We arrived at To-ji   (East Temple), a World Heritage site, also not far from the Kyoto Station.  To-ji boasts a pagoda which is the highest wooden tower in Japan. The temple was established in 796 and represents the Shingon school of Buddhism.  Like most places in Japan, what we saw at To-ji were reconstructions.  The pagoda we saw, for example, was rebuilt in the late 17th century.  Our friend updated her temple book with calligraphy which I was allowed to photograph.
Autumn colors at To-ji

Quince tree at To-ji
To-ji Pagoda up close

To-ji Pagoda 
Calligraphy in temple book
12:30  We had lunch at a Japanese restaurant “Hisago” in Higashiyama district.  The specialty is “oyakodon”, rice bowl with chicken and semi-cooked egg.

13:15  We passed through a nice alley called Ishibe-koji to the foot of Kodai-ji.. We got a photo from a distance  of a war memorial for Japanese soldiers in WW2,  Ryozen Kannon (Bodhisattva Avalokiteśvara ) near Kodai-ji.
    
Ishibe-koji

Ryozen Kannon
13:25  We walked down a street called “Ninenzaka” which is toward Kiyomizu Temple.  On the way, I found a store dedicated to the fabulous Totoro (My Neighbor Totoro).  We also saw an ad to dress up as a geisha, hanging monkey soft sculptures on many of the shops and a five-storied pagoda called “Yasaka-no-to".

Totoro!
dress like a geisha (geiko, maiko) ad


Ninenzaka
Monkeys ©Paul Hoffman 2010
Yasaka-no-to
14:10   We arrived at Kennin-ji, the oldest Zen temple in Kyoto, and one of my favorite places in Japan. Highlights included the rock gardens and the dragon ceiling. I will let the pictures do the talking.

Hattou at Kennin-ji
Kennin-ji
Rock garden at Kennin-ji
Rock garden at Kennin-ji
Rock garden at Kennin-ji ©Paul Hoffman 2010

Rock garden at Kennin-ji
Grounds at Kennin-ji
Grounds at Kennin-ji

Chouontei Garden at Kennin-ji
Dragon ceiling at Kennin-ji
Rock garden at Kennin-ji

15:15   After leaving Kennin-ji, we walked on the street called “Hanami-koji”.  On the way, we saw Yasaka Shrine on the far corner of the Shijo Dori street, and Minami-za Kabuki Theater.

15:40   We took a rest at the Japanese tea house “Izutsu Yatsuhasi Honpo”

16:20    We passed over  Shijo Ohashi Bridge.  At that point, my husband  took a walk on the Teramachi street, while my friend and I looked  at Takashimaya department store.  The store reminded me of an upscale American department store with higher prices--nothing I could justify affording, not even a small t-shirt or toy.

17:00   We finished the day with dinner at the vegetarian restaurant “Miko-an” run by a former Buddhist nun, always peace activist  with a penchant for cats.
Minami-za Kabuki Theater ©Reiko Yabu 2010

Hanging with one of the many cats at Miko-an ©Reiko Yabu 2010
All photos not otherwise attributed are ©Maggie Heim 2010.